Cosmetics in ancient Rome

Cosmetics, first used in ancient Rome for ritual purposes,^[1] were part of daily life. Some fashionable cosmetics, such as those imported from Germany, Gaul and China, were so expensive that the Lex Oppia tried to limit their use in 189 BCE.^[2] These "designer brands" spawned cheap knock-offs that were sold to poorer women.^[3] Working-class women could afford the cheaper varieties, but may not have had the time (or slaves) to apply the makeup^[4] as the use of makeup was a time-consuming affair because cosmetics needed to be reapplied several times a day due to weather conditions and poor composition.^[5]

Cosmetics were applied in private, usually in a small room where men did not enter. Cosmetae, female slaves that adorned their mistresses, were especially praised for their skills.^[6] They would beautify their mistresses with cultus, the Latin word encompassing makeup, perfume and jewelry.^[7]

Scent was also an important factor of beauty. Women who smelled good were presumed to be healthy. Due to the stench of many of the ingredients used in cosmetics at the time, women often drenched themselves in copious amounts of perfume.^[8]

Christian women tended to avoid cosmetics with the belief that they should praise what God gave them.^[9] Some men, especially cross-dressers, did use cosmetics, although it was viewed as effeminate and improper.^[10]

All cosmetic ingredients were also used as medicines to treat various ailments. Lead, although known to be poisonous, was still widely used.^[7]