Action Directe (climb)

Action Directe
The route follows five bolts that are visible on the photo (quickdraws are clipped to the fourth and fifth bolt) and ends with the belay anchor (not visible).
Map showing the location of Action Directe
Map showing the location of Action Directe
Map showing the approximate location of Action Directe
LocationFrankenjura, Germany
Coordinates49°38′04″N 11°36′09″E / 49.63444°N 11.60250°E / 49.63444; 11.60250
Climbing areaWaldkopf crag, Krottenseer Forst
Route typeSport Climb
Vertical gain15-metre (49 ft)
Pitches1
Rating9a (French), XI (UIAA), or 5.14d (YDS)
Bolted byMilan Sykora
First free ascentWolfgang Güllich, 14 September 1991.

Action Directe (French: [aksjɔ̄ diʁɛkt]) is a short 15-metre (49 ft) sport climb at the limestone Waldkopf crag in Frankenjura, Germany. When it was first climbed by German climber Wolfgang Güllich in 1991, it became the first climb in the world to have a consensus 9a (5.14d) grade.[a] Action Directe is considered an important route in rock climbing history, and is one of the most attempted climbs at its grade, where it is considered the "benchmark" for the level of 9a. The plyometric training techniques and customized equipment that Güllich used to prepare for the unique physical demands of Action Directe also revolutionized climbing and what could be achieved.

  1. ^ Cite error: The named reference FD was invoked but never defined (see the help page).
  2. ^ Cite error: The named reference GR9 was invoked but never defined (see the help page).


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