Zoot suit

A zoot suit (occasionally spelled zuit suit^[1]) is a men's suit with high-waisted, wide-legged, tight-cuffed, pegged trousers, and a long coat with wide lapels and wide padded shoulders. It is most notable for its use as a cultural symbol among the Hepcat and Pachuco subcultures. Originating among African Americans it would later become popular with Mexican, Filipino, Italian, and Japanese Americans in the 1940s.^[2][3][4][5]

The zoot suit originated in African American comedy shows in the 1920s. Comedians such as Pigmeat Markham, Stepin Fetchit, and others would dress in rags or in baggy suits for their comedic routines. This style of baggy suits would later become more stylish over time in urban ghettos. Many tap and Lindy hop dancers would wear loose fitting suits to the clubs and ballrooms. These suits made it much easier to navigate through the dance floor while dancing. Jazz and Jump Blues singers helped popularize the style in the 1930s and 40s. Cab Calloway called them "totally and truly American". The suits were worn mainly by African American men, including a young Malcolm X.^[6] During the rationing of World War II, they were criticized as a wasteful use of cloth, wool being rationed then. In 1942, the War Production Board issued restrictions aimed at stopping the sale of zoot suits.^[6]

In the so-called Zoot Suit Riots of 1943, groups of predominately Mexican zoot suiters became victims of repeated racial mob violence.^[7][8] Wearing of the zoot suit was never banned, despite a debate of its prohibition by the Los Angeles City Council in the aftermath of the riots.^[6][8][9] The zoot suit become an important symbol of cultural pride and defiance of oppression in the Chicano Movement.^[10] It experienced a brief resurgence in the swing revival scene in the 1990s.^[11] The suit is still worn by Chicano in Mexican subcultures for memorialization events, regular celebrations, and special occasions.^[12][13][14]